Den 36: Dubovým hájem

Tábořiště "Sawmill" - tábořiště "Horse campground"
Míle 498 - 508
Celkem 10 mil

Už s prvními paprsky začíná sluníčko pálit na plné obrátky. Hustým listnatým lesem přicházím k míli č. 500. Ve skalkách se vyhřívají ještěrky, kontroluji signál a potkávám Čechy, kteří včerejší požární okliku objeli stopem. Naším cílem je dojít k vodnímu zdroji na míli 505 a tam si dát hodně dlouhou pauzu až do večera.

Vodní zdroj je zastřešená podzemní nádrž. Ve stínu tankujeme vodu, vaříme brzký oběd a jdeme spát. Já jdu spát pod dubem do stanu, aby na mě nemohly dotěrné mouchy. Probouzím se kolem páté. Největší horko pominulo a pofukuje mírný vítr.
Pěšina prochází starým dubovým hájem. Rostou zde nejrůznější druhy stále zelených i opadavých dubů. Krajina tak trochu připomíná podhůří Bílých Karpat.

Směrem na východ je vidět Mohavská poušť: cíp pouště budeme překračovat v následujících několika dnech. V poušti se lesknou čtvercová pole solárních panelů.

Na obloze se objevují první červánky, když přicházím do lesního tábořiště "horse camp" s piknikovým stolkem ve stínu borovic. V kempu už táboří Rosťa, Lucka, Ríša i Petra, a tak se přidávám.

Hluboko pod námi blikají červená světla větrníků. Vaříme večeři a pro jistotu kvůli komárům stavím stan, nakonec ale usínám pod širákem pod borovicí za mírného vánku. Zítra brzy ráno nás čeká sestup dolů do horké pouště.

Day 35: Powerhouse Fire Detour

Casa de Luna - Sawmill Campground
2 miles from Green Valley to trail + 12 miles fire detour + mile 493 - 498 of PCT
Total 19 miles

Taking off from the peaceful and hospitable home of Casa de Luna in Green Valley, I follow directions of the road walk detour. Part of the PCT has been closed in this area since a big fire in 2013. The road goes through villages of Lake Elizabeth and Lake Huges. The lakes are dry, only one little pond remaining - another sign of the ongoing severe southern California drought.

In Lake Huges I send some of my oats and rice onwards to Kennedy Meadows. Then I stop at the little store to buy avocados and meet two hikers "111" and "HG" at the Rock Inn bar. The bar has cold beer and great food including veggie burgers, and there's shade to wait out the biggest heat. I also got a postcard and sent it to Ziggy and Bear, to let Ziggy know that I made it through the Lake Fire detour and I'm safe.

Trees burned by the fire and dead apricot orchards can be seen on both sides of the valley. Finally I reach a place where a side trail leaves the road and heads back towards the PCT.

There is a spring with cold water; beautiful old trees; and millions of bugs wanting to eat me alive! At Upper Shake campground I meet Simba and Meerkat and other hikers who started earlier. We try some dance moves and it chases some of the bugs away. Shortly after the campground the side trail joins the PCT. We're done with the fire detour. Unfortunately it looks like a new fire started burning yesterday at Chimney creek, between Walker Pass and Kennedy Meadows (150 miles up the trail). Hope all hikers and firefighters are safe and hope there's more info how to get around that fire as we get closer to the area ...

The PCT goes through a thick old forest of oak, pine and fir trees. It's one of the most beautiful forest sections on the trail so far and resembles some of the old mixed woodlands of Central Europe. Including the flies and all kinds of other nasty bugs biting everywhere.

With evening approaching and sun hiding, a little breeze starts. A side trail leads to the top of Sawmill Mountain with a nice campground under oak trees. I build a tent to keep away the bugs, and join the other hikers camping here.

Den 34: Zelené Údolí (zero!)

Casa de Luna v Zeleném Údolí (Green Valley)
Celkem 0 mil (super odpočinkový den!)

Zelené Údolí je místo, kde v "Měsíčním domě" (Casa de Luna) žijí skvělí lidé, manželé Andersonovi. Každý rok hostí na své zahradě stovky hladových, žíznivých a unavených poutníků.
Zahrada, to je spíše hustý pohádkový les.

V lese si každý najde útulné místečko k schrupnutí. Na zahradě je budka s osvěžující studenou sprchou a lavičky k posezení. K snídani nám hostitelé prichystali kafe, čerstvé ovoce a palačinky. A k večeři máme nejlepší jídlo na PCT: vydatný fazolový salát!

Hajkři hrají na kytary a bubínky, malují si obličeje, masírují si navzájem nohy, podepisují se na zeď a nebo jen tak kecají o všem možném i nemožném.
Zelené údolí přímo vybízí k tomu, zůstat déle a přespat ještě jednu noc. Takový den se v hajkerské hantýrce nazývá "zero day" ('nulový den') podle toho, že jsme za ten den ušli celkem nula mil. Určitě jsem už zero den potřeboval - přinejmenším k navýšení tělesné hmotnosti!

Day 33: Turn up the Heat

Cowboy camp on ridge above Aqua Dulce - Casa de Luna in Green Valley
Mile 460 - 478
Total 18 miles

Yesterday evening I wrote in the trail register climbing out of Hiker Heaven in Aqua Dulce: "Sun, turn UP the HEAT, and melt the thick Sierra snow FAST! ~ Snowman"

And the Sun is really turning up it's heat, faster and hotter than I expected. The night was pleasantly mild: no need to sleep in socks or winter cap any more! But already shortly after sunrise it is starting to show its ferocious scorching energy. Still in shade I climbed up a ridge with oak trees where I met Ríša, a late riser and one of us 7 Czechs on the 2016 PCT. A few steps down on trail I met Firstlight at a critical water source: Bear Spring. Bees and hikers drink the most water from this slow but steady spring, the next water being 15+ miles away.

I filled up 4 liters of water for around 4 miles per liter of "hiker gas" mileage. Is that going to be enough? The trail climbs up and down in its gentle switchbacks through thick shrubs of chamise in white-yellow blossom, manzanita and scrub live oak. Some of the bigger shrubs provide welcome shade while climbing up the next ridge with high voltage power lines.

Wild cucumbers climb up the shrub trunks and branches. As noon approaches, its about time to lie down in a shady spot and wait out the biggest heat. The sun moves even higher and shade disappears and there are hundreds of nasty flies - fortunately there are bigger shrubs behind the ridge and with some breeze to keep most flies away. There with Richard and few other hikers we just fall asleep.

After 4 the biggest heat is over: time to restart our hike towards Green Valley, the peaceful home of trail angels (the Anderson's) called "Casa de Luna". The green valley can be seen below the trail. One last ridge and we'll be almost there!

The PCT descends to a fire station at San Francisquito Canyon road. Fire danger today is high. And at the station there's water! My water mileage forecast was accurate: I have finished all of it one mile back.

Following the road it's 2 miles down to Casa de Luna: a must-stop for weary PCT hikers! Shortly after we started walking down the road, a kind driver stops and gives us a ride. And we're just in time for a delicious free dinner of chips, beans, onions, tomatoes and chili peppers! Lucy and Rocksteady and Petra from Czech team have been early birds and already arrived around noon. 111 successfully completed the 24 beer 24 miles 24 hours challenge. And there's Sarge and Corporate and Mountain Goat too! More pictures from Casa de Luna tomorrow. Tomorrow I'm not hiking anywhere, my miles will be zero, I'm taking a totally ZERO day in the peaceful manzanita forest at the Anderson's  at the house of the moon (Casa de Luna) in the beautiful Green Valley!