Day 35: Powerhouse Fire Detour

Casa de Luna - Sawmill Campground
2 miles from Green Valley to trail + 12 miles fire detour + mile 493 - 498 of PCT
Total 19 miles

Taking off from the peaceful and hospitable home of Casa de Luna in Green Valley, I follow directions of the road walk detour. Part of the PCT has been closed in this area since a big fire in 2013. The road goes through villages of Lake Elizabeth and Lake Huges. The lakes are dry, only one little pond remaining - another sign of the ongoing severe southern California drought.

In Lake Huges I send some of my oats and rice onwards to Kennedy Meadows. Then I stop at the little store to buy avocados and meet two hikers "111" and "HG" at the Rock Inn bar. The bar has cold beer and great food including veggie burgers, and there's shade to wait out the biggest heat. I also got a postcard and sent it to Ziggy and Bear, to let Ziggy know that I made it through the Lake Fire detour and I'm safe.

Trees burned by the fire and dead apricot orchards can be seen on both sides of the valley. Finally I reach a place where a side trail leaves the road and heads back towards the PCT.

There is a spring with cold water; beautiful old trees; and millions of bugs wanting to eat me alive! At Upper Shake campground I meet Simba and Meerkat and other hikers who started earlier. We try some dance moves and it chases some of the bugs away. Shortly after the campground the side trail joins the PCT. We're done with the fire detour. Unfortunately it looks like a new fire started burning yesterday at Chimney creek, between Walker Pass and Kennedy Meadows (150 miles up the trail). Hope all hikers and firefighters are safe and hope there's more info how to get around that fire as we get closer to the area ...

The PCT goes through a thick old forest of oak, pine and fir trees. It's one of the most beautiful forest sections on the trail so far and resembles some of the old mixed woodlands of Central Europe. Including the flies and all kinds of other nasty bugs biting everywhere.

With evening approaching and sun hiding, a little breeze starts. A side trail leads to the top of Sawmill Mountain with a nice campground under oak trees. I build a tent to keep away the bugs, and join the other hikers camping here.

Den 28: Zpátky na hřeben

Tábořiště u potoka pod Čertovou židlí ("Devil's Chair") - borovice
Míle 8 - 20 okliky kvůli ohroženým živočichům + míle 394 - 397 na PCT
Celkem 15 mil

V tábořišti se mi za zvuku blízkého potoka a ve stínu dubů spalo výborně - Po dvou mrazivých a větrných nocích na hřebeni bylo dole v údolí příjemně teplo.

Nad tábořištěm se tyčí slepencový skalní útvar "Devil's Chair" (čertova židle)

Následujících několik mil okliky (část hřebenovky je dlouhodobě uzavřená kvůli ochraně kriticky ohrožené ropuchy) vede úpatím hor na dolní hranici lesa. Spolu s třemi hajkry (Saskvač, Majk a First Light) překračujeme tři potoky vytékající z hor. Pod námi se rozprostírá Mohavská poušť.

Po překonání třetího potoka nás čeká strmý výšlap 750 výškových metrů zpátky do hor. Nahoře v sedle "Burkhards Saddle" vidíme na sever a na jih. Na severu se rozkládá poušť se suchým jezerem "Rogers Dry Lake" a vojenskou leteckou základnou. Na jihu vidíme hlavní hřeben pohoří San Gabriel.

Jsme zpátky v horách, v řídkém jehličnatém lese. Pod borovicemi vyrůstající tmavě červené byliny, které se mi zatím nepodařilo určit.

Sestupujeme k divokému horskému potoku.  Po dvaceti mílích okliky jsme zpátky na PCT!

U potoka si spolu s Majkem a Firstlightem dáváme dlouhou odpolední pauzu. Když jako poslední vyrazím na pěšinu, asi po kilometru zjistím, že jsem někde nechal dva páry ponožek. Vracím se k potoku a ponožky leží na kameni. Díky Bohu, že jsem si na ně vzpomněl - bez náhradních ponožek by byly chodidla brzo v čudu.

Pěšina pokračuje podél potoka nádherným lesem s prastarými velikány.

Na hřebenech roste řídký borovicový les, v bočních údolích je porost hustší. V jednom údolíčku nalézám špičkové místo na přespání pod širákem pod ochranou borovic.

Day 19: Lake Fire Detour - Part Three

Pioneertown Mountains Preserve Ranger Station - cowboy camp under big juniper tree
On the unofficial Lake Fire detour
(~ mile 24 - 42 of "Magician's Lake Fire" detour)
Total 18 miles

Almost back on the PCT!!!!!

I woke up at sunrise in the shelter next to the ranger station, filled up plenty of water, and set off for the remaining leg of the long "Lake Fire" detour. Gentle breeze was blowing and welcome clouds covering the sky. The paved road continued until the small village of Rimrock, where it turned into an unpaved dirt road and entered a dry rocky canyon.

A few miles up the canyon a totally unexpected thing appeared out of nowhere: a lunch box with a sign "hikers welcome" and fresh fruits, snacks, water bottles and a trail register inside. A 6 year old boy who is staying at a nearby ranch at his grandparents has set this all up for us hikers. BIG THANKS! You are a true angel. I took an apple and an orange and my hope of getting back to the PCT increased. Further up the road there were some remote settlements, lots of huge Joshua trees, and more encouraging signs that the trail is getting close!

The road continued through an entire forest of yuccas / yoshua trees, some as high as 10 metres.

Then it finally entered national forest land. With increasing elevation the amount of trees also started to increase. Only in the east I could see the burned trees from last year's horrible fire.

Turning left on forest road 2N01, the PCT is only 5 more miles away! At a mountain saddle a clear view opened up just before the sunset. Maybe the far away mountains on the north could be the Sierras?

Below the saddle I found a flat meadow with a huge solitary juniper tree. A perfect spot to sleep. Tomorrow early morning I'll be back on the PCT!

Day 18: Lake Fire Detour Part Two

Yucca Valley - Pioneertown Mountains Preserve ranger station camp
Mile 24 - 31 of Snowman's Lake Fire detour (~ mile 15 - 22 of "Magician's Lake Fire" detour)
Total 7 miles
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Note: this time I make an exception and write today's post in English for other PCT hikers interested in walking the fire detour.

... Dnešní zápis výjimečně píšu podruhé za sebou anglicky jako info o požární oklice pro poutníky za mnou. Brzy to vynahradím.

After two marathon hiking days in a row (27 + 26 miles) my feet are telling me I need a rest day. And on the PCT you've got to listen to your feet.
I sleep until 9, wash dirty clothes in the laundromat, and spend most of the day shopping and eating and sleeping around in Yucca Valley. The Big Lots supermarket has lots of cheap and nutritious trail snacks. And there is another store where they have dairy free dark chocolate! I eat the whole chocolate in one go. And then go to Del Taco Mexican fast food and eat a big veggie burrito and large fries. This is the insane hiker hunger.

A nice park with picnic tables provides shade for afternoon siesta. Nearby is a groundwater recharge facility.

The best cultural stop in Yucca Valley is Desert Christ park with huge statues of people from the gospels.
There is Jesus with the Samaritan woman at the well; Jesus with little children; the 12 apostles; Jesus praying in the garden of Gethsemane and the apostles sleeping;  the empty tomb; and the risen Christ.

Around 5 pm it gets cooler - time to walk a few miles and find a place for camping out of town. The Pioneertown Road has low traffic and a wide shoulder for walking. There are big rocks and a few old ranches along the road.

After a few miles one car stops. Lucas, a ranger from the nearby Wildlands Conservancy Pioneertown Mountains Preserve, asks me if I'm a PCT hiker and tells me I can camp at the ranger station 3 miles down the road. The station has restrooms and water. My problem about finding a safe camping spot is solved!

One mile later I enter a town with a funny communist name: Pioneertown. It only has a few farms and ranches and a saloon bar Pappy and Harriet's - a perfect stop for dinner! I chat with the locals at the bar, drink two small beers and eat a big veggie burger. One of the locals, Steven, helped building a section of the PCT around Deep Creek Hot Springs - a few days walk from here. I'm already looking forward to a naked dip in the hot water!

Shortly after sunset I find my way to the ranger station. Greeted by frogs and a friendly dog, I fall fast asleep in the shelter next to the picnic tables.