Showing posts with label Columbia River. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Columbia River. Show all posts

Thursday, September 22, 2016

Day 140: Entering the Forests of Washington

Bridge of the Gods - cowboy camp near Three Cornered Rock
33 miles bus from Motel 6 in Vancouver, WA to Bridge of the Gods + Mile 2146 - 2160 on PCT + 1 mile side trail to Three Cornered Rock viewpoint
Total 15 miles walk

Yesterday I made an unplanned bus excursion from the PCT along the Columbia River to the city of Vancouver, WA to get a replacement cell phone. Today, equipped by a new "Kyocera" smartphone, I'm happy to get back to the trail. After a few hours of sleep at the Motel 6 in Vancouver, the cell phone alarm clock wakes me up at 5:30. It is still almost dark when I get outside to catch the city bus to the Fisher's Landing terminal where I wait for the minibus going to Stevenson past the Washington side of the Bridge of the Gods where I left the PCT yesterday.


The driver kindly agrees to drop me off near the bridge. I take a short walk back onto the bridge to take one more look at the mighty Columbia river and around 8:30 I'm back on trail!




Before heading uphill I take advantage of cell phone service and book the flight ticket to Europe. The date is set: On October 10th from Vancouver to Italy, where I'm having a conference presentation, and on October 15th from Italy to Prague! What is not set is for his many miles I can continue my walk. The weather can turn wintery at any time. The tarp should work well to keep me dry for one or two nights of rain. But what if there are three, four or five cold rainy or
days in a row? I am not sure if I am prepared for multiple days of cold rain and definitely I cannot stay on the PCT in the event of heavy snow. The mountains will give me signals when to finish. The sports challenge of walking all the way to Canada is still possible, but only in the case of exceptional weather. Luckily there are several escape points on the route, mainly in mountain passes where the PCT crosses major highways: White Pass, Snoqualmie Pass, Stevens Pass, Stehekin and Rainy Pass. The passes are few days walk apart and at each of them I can check the weather forecast and assess the situation. My next strategic supply point is White Pass, 150 miles north from here.

The forest is dark green with numerous species of ferns. The soil is still moist from the recent rains. Some parts of the forests in Washington state are named "Pacific Rainforest" and although the Columbia river gorge us not in the rainforest zone, the lush green forest here does resemble a rainforest jungle.



Higher uphill on south facing slopes, the trees are starting to change their colors. Today's date is already September 15th. The trail passes a small lake and a high voltage power line.



The climb uphill becomes steeper as the trail traverses exposed rock fields and again enters the cover of broadleaf forest.



After more than 3000 feet of elevation gain the, trail reaches a rocky ridge with views across the Columbia River gorge, back south towards Mount Hood. In the northwest direction the recently active volcano of Mount St Helens can be seen. The snow and huh glacier covered summit of Mount Adams stands out in the north east, encircled by high clouds.




On the ridge, coniferous trees are starting to prevail. Under one of the trees I see an ant hill: the first real ant hill on my PCT walk! Then I take a short side trail to a, spring bear the summit of Three Cornered Rock to fill up water. The water has yellow color and so I do not drink it, but the views from the rock are spectacular. The sun is setting, the moon is rising and all three volcano giants of southern Washington: Mount St Helens, Mount Rainier, and Mount Adams, dominate the northern horizon.




On the way back along the side trail, under thick cover of conifer trees, I cook a late evening supper and set up cowboy camp for tonight and quickly fall asleep, breathing in the fresh forest air.

Wednesday, September 21, 2016

Day 138: Tunnel Falls and Columbia River Gorge

Cowboy camp on ridge south of Indian Springs - cowboy camp in backyard of Shreks place in Cascade Locks
Mile 2123 - 2125 on PCT + 15 miles on Eagle Creek alternate trail
Total 17 miles

Last night I slept comfortably under tall trees. Since leaving the Big Lake youth camp six days ago, I have been cowboy camping every night. The weather for hiking is perfect. Today's trail leads me further along a ridge to a spring and campground called "Indian Springs", where I fill up water and take a side trail on the way deep down into the Columbia River gorge. The descent on this shortcut is extremely steep and I am glad when I get down to a more gradual trail : the Eagle Creek trail, which goes along many waterfalls.
The elevation change is noticeable. Deciduous trees prevail in the forest and there is thick undergrowth of ferns. The trail crosses many side streams. Next to one of these streams is an unofficial campsite where I take a short break. A careless person has left an empty bottle of wine and some cans at the fire rig. I get a bit upset by this behavior but I take the wine bottle and put it in my backpack back pocket. When I get to town maybe somebody thinks I'm an alcoholic but I don't mind.

The trail soon reaches the highlight of today's section: the Tunnel Falls. A path passes through a narrow tunnel directly behind the waterfalls. I lost all of my photos of the falls but you can see some here:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eagle_Creek_waterfalls

Downstream from Tunnel Falls the trail passes more waterfalls and crosses the deep chasm on two bridges. I meet some tourists walking and runners running uphill. Finally around early afternoon I get to a rest area near the Columbia river. Here a bicycle trail follows an interstate highway, goes through a tunnel under it and reaches the town of Cascade Locks: the location of the famous Bridge of the Gods across the Columbia River. Tomorrow I'll be crossing the bridge into Washington!

My first stop in town is the post office where I pick up two packages, one sent from Castella and another one from my good friends from Utah. For strategic reason I forward the package with good food from Utah to White Pass 150 miles north in Washington. Forwarding a package is free if you don't open the box.
In town I meet many hikers and they tell me there is a place called Shreks up the road. Shrek is a very kind person, a trail angel who lets PCT hikers camp in his backyard. There is a small house where hikers can have a shower, do laundry, and recharge their electronics. A nice spot for a rest day!
I get my clothes washed, find a good fitting rain jacket from the hiker box, take a hot shower, and then visit a little restaurant "not a dog" where they have vegan hot dogs :-) Then I chat with the other hikers at Shreks, it soon gets dark, but the night is warm and so I can cowboy camp again under trees in Shreks cozy backyard.
Tomorrow I need to pick up one more package at the Ale House with the tarp from Ellie sent from Ashland (the Ale house restaurant is closed on Tuesdays). Then I look forward to crossing the Columbia river and heading into the wilderness of Washington!

Note: this blog post is without pictures because I lost my cell phone. Here is a postcard from Cascade Locks with Bridge of the Gods. The upcoming post is going to have some photos again because now I'm writing from a replacement phone :-)