Friday, October 7, 2016

Day 148: Mount Rainier National Park in Fog and Drizzle

Campsite on ridge at boundary of Mount Rainier NP - campsite in forest near Arch Rock
Mile 2312 - 2339
Total 27 miles



Yesterday the PCT took me to the boundary of Mount Rainier National Park. It is the sixth out of seven national parks on the trail's route through the USA. Although the night outside was cold, foggy and wet, I stayed warm and dry inside my little tent thanks to the big tarp from Ellie that I folded on the tent floor.

The surrounding landscape as far as the eye can see has reminded me of the cover of J. R. R. Tolkien's book "The Hobit". It was the first book I read in class in English language long time ago in Belfast. I don't remember much of the story any more, but I do remember the steep slopes, roaring rivers and narrow passages between rock towers hidden in thick fog. Now I know such landscape exists in reality.

Light rain starts picking up and little raindrops are decorating huckleberry leaves as the path winds up and down past deep lakes and across streams. Somewhere in cloud hides Mount Rainier, the highest volcano of the Cascades. I spot a big elk bull walking through the forest.




My pace is faster in the light rain and before noon I have already walked to Chinook Pass where the PCT crosses a paved road over a bridge. Near the crossing there is a parking lot and rest area with picnic tables and toilets. Behind one of the toilet houses I start preparing an early lunch. In the morning as I was starting to make breakfast, the lighter stopped working. I remember that a few weeks ago I found a spare lighter on trail, but probably I put it to a hiker box in the next town... Now I know that lighters don't last for ever and it's a good idea to have a spare one :-) Some cars have parked at the viewpoint and I ask the people if they have a lighter I could borrow. The second driver has one and lights my gas stove. When she sees the rice and onions that I'm cooking, she offers me an extra apple and pear and then another driver stops by and gives me a cigarette. At first I want to throw the cigarette in trash, but then I look closer and there are five matchsticks and a striking strip attached to the cigar. Now I'll be able to enjoy the luxury of hot meals again!



North of Chinook Pass the trail continues on contour and crosses a sharp ridge several times. I meet a group of mules carrying heavy loads of supplies on their backs. Then a view opens up towards a ski area.



As evening approaches there is a brief moment when the thick clouds break apart and sun shines on various kinds of fungi growing next to the trail. Then the clouds close up again and fog descends on the forest.




Hoping that any night rain will be light, I set up the tent under large trees, cook hot couscous, and crawl inside as water starts dripping from the moist tree canopy on my tent roof.

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