Forest under Middle Sister - edge of lava field in saddle between Big and Little Bellknap mountain
Mile 1963 - 1984
Total 21 miles
Today morning is chilly and all meadows and rocks outside of the forest are covered in white. I am glad I chose to sleep in tent and under protection of tall trees last night. High above the trees and meadows stand three dormant volcanoes named "Three Sisters". Their summits are dotted with semi-permanent snowfields and according to my map, there are also large glaciers on their north facing slopes.
After a few miles the PCT enters a special area named "Obsidian". The surface is covered by dark black glittering rocks that were used by our early human ancestors to make knives and spearheads. Camping is not allowed in the area.
There are numerous streams, waterfalls and springs. Here we can see the Obsidian waterfall and the Sister Spring.
More examples of obsidian rock:
From the north edge of the obsidian area, high mountains can be seen: the sharp Three Fingered Jack, the glaciated and cloud covered Mount Jefferson, and behind them the active volcano of Mount Hood, Oregon's highest peak.
Down in the next valley frost still decorates fallen tree logs and there is a little bit of ice on banks of a stream.
A steep climb leads from the frosty valley across a vast lava field. The solidified lava resembles huge rock piles with deep cracks and holes in between. Looking south lies a glacier on the slope of North Sister. Looking north the volcanoes of Mount Washington and Mount Jefferson stand high above the forested landscape.
It is relief for my shoes and feet when the trail leaves the sharp rocky surface of the lava field and enters sparse forest on the shores of South Matthieu Lake. Here I refill water and go for a quick swim. Today is the Labor Day holiday and many locals and visitors have gone for a hike and are taking a break at the lake. Two of them start chatting with me and offer me delicious homemade cookies. The hiker's name is "Trail Chef" and he's out here for a three day backpacking trip with his wife on a loop trail around the Three Sisters. He hiked the PCT a couple of years ago from Mexico until southern Washington. There he had to leave the trail when three feet of snow fell overnight on the ridge in early October. His experience is a reminder for me not to keep my expectations about reaching Canada too high.
At the lake I also meet a group of four hikers from England. They started the walk from Mexican border just one day before me. We walk together and talk about our motivations and expectations of what will happen after our epic discovery journey ends. The trail leads us over another lava field to Mackenzie Pass, where it crosses a highway. Here my companions set up their tents. It is not dark yet and so I decide to walk on to the top of the next hill.
Shortly after the highway, the PCT enters another wilderness area: the Mount Washington wilderness. It is a slow walk uphill over sharp lava rock and night is approaching fast. The shapes of the lava resemble fairytale unicorns and many other animals. Behind me shine the glaciers of the Three Sisters. In the west shines the thin crescent of the moon.
It is almost dark when the trail reaches the edge of the lava field between Big and Little Bellknap. Clouds have covered the sky and strong wind is blowing. There is a bare ground spot where I set up my tent. It might start raining in the night. I put on all my layers of clothing, cook a bowl of oatmeal for extra warmth, and crawl inside, listening to the song of the wind.
A song for tonight:
Mile 1963 - 1984
Total 21 miles
Today morning is chilly and all meadows and rocks outside of the forest are covered in white. I am glad I chose to sleep in tent and under protection of tall trees last night. High above the trees and meadows stand three dormant volcanoes named "Three Sisters". Their summits are dotted with semi-permanent snowfields and according to my map, there are also large glaciers on their north facing slopes.
After a few miles the PCT enters a special area named "Obsidian". The surface is covered by dark black glittering rocks that were used by our early human ancestors to make knives and spearheads. Camping is not allowed in the area.
There are numerous streams, waterfalls and springs. Here we can see the Obsidian waterfall and the Sister Spring.
More examples of obsidian rock:
From the north edge of the obsidian area, high mountains can be seen: the sharp Three Fingered Jack, the glaciated and cloud covered Mount Jefferson, and behind them the active volcano of Mount Hood, Oregon's highest peak.
Down in the next valley frost still decorates fallen tree logs and there is a little bit of ice on banks of a stream.
A steep climb leads from the frosty valley across a vast lava field. The solidified lava resembles huge rock piles with deep cracks and holes in between. Looking south lies a glacier on the slope of North Sister. Looking north the volcanoes of Mount Washington and Mount Jefferson stand high above the forested landscape.
It is relief for my shoes and feet when the trail leaves the sharp rocky surface of the lava field and enters sparse forest on the shores of South Matthieu Lake. Here I refill water and go for a quick swim. Today is the Labor Day holiday and many locals and visitors have gone for a hike and are taking a break at the lake. Two of them start chatting with me and offer me delicious homemade cookies. The hiker's name is "Trail Chef" and he's out here for a three day backpacking trip with his wife on a loop trail around the Three Sisters. He hiked the PCT a couple of years ago from Mexico until southern Washington. There he had to leave the trail when three feet of snow fell overnight on the ridge in early October. His experience is a reminder for me not to keep my expectations about reaching Canada too high.
At the lake I also meet a group of four hikers from England. They started the walk from Mexican border just one day before me. We walk together and talk about our motivations and expectations of what will happen after our epic discovery journey ends. The trail leads us over another lava field to Mackenzie Pass, where it crosses a highway. Here my companions set up their tents. It is not dark yet and so I decide to walk on to the top of the next hill.
Shortly after the highway, the PCT enters another wilderness area: the Mount Washington wilderness. It is a slow walk uphill over sharp lava rock and night is approaching fast. The shapes of the lava resemble fairytale unicorns and many other animals. Behind me shine the glaciers of the Three Sisters. In the west shines the thin crescent of the moon.
It is almost dark when the trail reaches the edge of the lava field between Big and Little Bellknap. Clouds have covered the sky and strong wind is blowing. There is a bare ground spot where I set up my tent. It might start raining in the night. I put on all my layers of clothing, cook a bowl of oatmeal for extra warmth, and crawl inside, listening to the song of the wind.
A song for tonight:
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