Wednesday, September 21, 2016

Day 138: Tunnel Falls and Columbia River Gorge

Cowboy camp on ridge south of Indian Springs - cowboy camp in backyard of Shreks place in Cascade Locks
Mile 2123 - 2125 on PCT + 15 miles on Eagle Creek alternate trail
Total 17 miles

Last night I slept comfortably under tall trees. Since leaving the Big Lake youth camp six days ago, I have been cowboy camping every night. The weather for hiking is perfect. Today's trail leads me further along a ridge to a spring and campground called "Indian Springs", where I fill up water and take a side trail on the way deep down into the Columbia River gorge. The descent on this shortcut is extremely steep and I am glad when I get down to a more gradual trail : the Eagle Creek trail, which goes along many waterfalls.
The elevation change is noticeable. Deciduous trees prevail in the forest and there is thick undergrowth of ferns. The trail crosses many side streams. Next to one of these streams is an unofficial campsite where I take a short break. A careless person has left an empty bottle of wine and some cans at the fire rig. I get a bit upset by this behavior but I take the wine bottle and put it in my backpack back pocket. When I get to town maybe somebody thinks I'm an alcoholic but I don't mind.

The trail soon reaches the highlight of today's section: the Tunnel Falls. A path passes through a narrow tunnel directly behind the waterfalls. I lost all of my photos of the falls but you can see some here:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Eagle_Creek_waterfalls

Downstream from Tunnel Falls the trail passes more waterfalls and crosses the deep chasm on two bridges. I meet some tourists walking and runners running uphill. Finally around early afternoon I get to a rest area near the Columbia river. Here a bicycle trail follows an interstate highway, goes through a tunnel under it and reaches the town of Cascade Locks: the location of the famous Bridge of the Gods across the Columbia River. Tomorrow I'll be crossing the bridge into Washington!

My first stop in town is the post office where I pick up two packages, one sent from Castella and another one from my good friends from Utah. For strategic reason I forward the package with good food from Utah to White Pass 150 miles north in Washington. Forwarding a package is free if you don't open the box.
In town I meet many hikers and they tell me there is a place called Shreks up the road. Shrek is a very kind person, a trail angel who lets PCT hikers camp in his backyard. There is a small house where hikers can have a shower, do laundry, and recharge their electronics. A nice spot for a rest day!
I get my clothes washed, find a good fitting rain jacket from the hiker box, take a hot shower, and then visit a little restaurant "not a dog" where they have vegan hot dogs :-) Then I chat with the other hikers at Shreks, it soon gets dark, but the night is warm and so I can cowboy camp again under trees in Shreks cozy backyard.
Tomorrow I need to pick up one more package at the Ale House with the tarp from Ellie sent from Ashland (the Ale house restaurant is closed on Tuesdays). Then I look forward to crossing the Columbia river and heading into the wilderness of Washington!

Note: this blog post is without pictures because I lost my cell phone. Here is a postcard from Cascade Locks with Bridge of the Gods. The upcoming post is going to have some photos again because now I'm writing from a replacement phone :-)

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