Cowboy camp in burned area under Lone Wolf mountain - Lightning Spring Campground in Crater Lake National Park
Mile 1806 - 1821 on PCT + 5 miles on Crater Lake Rim Trail alternate route + 1 mile side trail to Lightning Springs Campground
Total 21 miles
I wake up at first light when the stars are starting to fade, surrounded by ashes and charred tree snags under a volcanic rocky outcrop named "Lone Wolf". The burned area soon gives way to an old shady forest, the trail leads me to a ridge top where I cook breakfast and greet two hikers going south. From the ridge the sharp craggy summit of Union Peak can be seen. Then I notice a sign "Crater Lake National Park".
Out of all national parks in the USA, my biggest dream has always been to visit Crater Lake. Today the dream has become reality. The PCT leads me through old growth forest towards a road with a visitor information panel.
There are strict rules about camping in the national park. Near the lake camping is only allowed in two designated wilderness campgrounds: Lightning Springs and Grouse. To make the situation more complicated, there is a notice saying the Lightning Springs camp is closed due to a recent fire. The best decision is to go to the national park visitor center and ask a ranger about camping options.
My next steps go along the road to the Mazama Village store. At the store two packages forwarded from Castella are waiting for me. One package with instant rice and oatmeal from my friend Teva, and a second package with three lunches, three breakfasts, three dinners and a selection of snacks from Outdoor Herbivore, ordered for me by my generous Czech supporters. Outside the store a group of hikers is hanging out and there is a hiker box with fresh shredded carrots! I am happy about the nice hiker box find and glad that the packages have arrived. I ask a ranger at the store about camping and he tells me good news. The Lightning Springs campground has reopened two days ago.
It is time to reorganize my backpack, fill up my water bottles and head up towards the lake! A steep trail uphill passes a powerful spring: Annie Spring flowing out of a hole in porous volcanic rock. There are many more springs and streams on the way.
Two miles north of Annie Spring the PCT splits in two alternate routes. The official route for horses has less climbing and bypasses the crater. The Rim Trail alternate route has more uphills, less water, but it goes directly on the edge of the crater. Most PCT hikers including me chose to walk the Rim Trail alternate. The trail begins a steep climb to the top of the caldera. There are beautiful flowers and berries (wild currants) growing along the path. After a series of switchbacks, the trail reached the crater rim. Ahead of me lie the deep blue waters of Crater Lake!
With a depth of 1943 feet (592 m), Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the USA. It is also the seventh (or according to other sources, ninth) deepest lake on Earth. Compared to other lakes, Crater Lake is very young. It started filling up after a giant volcano Mount Mazama exploded and collapsed 7700 years ago, leaving behind a deep caldera. Smaller explosions followed, creating two volcanic cones inside the crater. The lower one is completely hidden underwater. The higher volcano is the Wizard Island.
With visitors from all over the world I gaze from above at the blue expanse.
A narrow trail called "Rim Trail" follows the edge of the crater, climbing up on rocky outcrops. Steep cliffs are between the trail and the lake shore. The only way to get to the water is by guided boat tour. From high above I can see the boat on its way around Wizard Island.
A side trail goes away from the rim to the Lightning Springs campground. Visitors are asked to wipe their shoes to prevent the spread of invasive species into the recently burned area along the trail.
In one mile I reach the spring with a comfortable campsite nearby. Surprisingly I am the only hiker camping there tonight. I built a tent to keep mosquitoes away, eat one of the delicious snacks from "Outdoor Herbivore", and soon fall asleep.
More pictures from the Crater Lake rim:
Mile 1806 - 1821 on PCT + 5 miles on Crater Lake Rim Trail alternate route + 1 mile side trail to Lightning Springs Campground
Total 21 miles
I wake up at first light when the stars are starting to fade, surrounded by ashes and charred tree snags under a volcanic rocky outcrop named "Lone Wolf". The burned area soon gives way to an old shady forest, the trail leads me to a ridge top where I cook breakfast and greet two hikers going south. From the ridge the sharp craggy summit of Union Peak can be seen. Then I notice a sign "Crater Lake National Park".
Out of all national parks in the USA, my biggest dream has always been to visit Crater Lake. Today the dream has become reality. The PCT leads me through old growth forest towards a road with a visitor information panel.
There are strict rules about camping in the national park. Near the lake camping is only allowed in two designated wilderness campgrounds: Lightning Springs and Grouse. To make the situation more complicated, there is a notice saying the Lightning Springs camp is closed due to a recent fire. The best decision is to go to the national park visitor center and ask a ranger about camping options.
My next steps go along the road to the Mazama Village store. At the store two packages forwarded from Castella are waiting for me. One package with instant rice and oatmeal from my friend Teva, and a second package with three lunches, three breakfasts, three dinners and a selection of snacks from Outdoor Herbivore, ordered for me by my generous Czech supporters. Outside the store a group of hikers is hanging out and there is a hiker box with fresh shredded carrots! I am happy about the nice hiker box find and glad that the packages have arrived. I ask a ranger at the store about camping and he tells me good news. The Lightning Springs campground has reopened two days ago.
It is time to reorganize my backpack, fill up my water bottles and head up towards the lake! A steep trail uphill passes a powerful spring: Annie Spring flowing out of a hole in porous volcanic rock. There are many more springs and streams on the way.
Two miles north of Annie Spring the PCT splits in two alternate routes. The official route for horses has less climbing and bypasses the crater. The Rim Trail alternate route has more uphills, less water, but it goes directly on the edge of the crater. Most PCT hikers including me chose to walk the Rim Trail alternate. The trail begins a steep climb to the top of the caldera. There are beautiful flowers and berries (wild currants) growing along the path. After a series of switchbacks, the trail reached the crater rim. Ahead of me lie the deep blue waters of Crater Lake!
With a depth of 1943 feet (592 m), Crater Lake is the deepest lake in the USA. It is also the seventh (or according to other sources, ninth) deepest lake on Earth. Compared to other lakes, Crater Lake is very young. It started filling up after a giant volcano Mount Mazama exploded and collapsed 7700 years ago, leaving behind a deep caldera. Smaller explosions followed, creating two volcanic cones inside the crater. The lower one is completely hidden underwater. The higher volcano is the Wizard Island.
With visitors from all over the world I gaze from above at the blue expanse.
A narrow trail called "Rim Trail" follows the edge of the crater, climbing up on rocky outcrops. Steep cliffs are between the trail and the lake shore. The only way to get to the water is by guided boat tour. From high above I can see the boat on its way around Wizard Island.
A side trail goes away from the rim to the Lightning Springs campground. Visitors are asked to wipe their shoes to prevent the spread of invasive species into the recently burned area along the trail.
In one mile I reach the spring with a comfortable campsite nearby. Surprisingly I am the only hiker camping there tonight. I built a tent to keep mosquitoes away, eat one of the delicious snacks from "Outdoor Herbivore", and soon fall asleep.
More pictures from the Crater Lake rim:
What a wonderful visit to Crater Lake. Once in grade school a classmate reported on a visit to this lake during summer vacation. With pictures. The child seemed deeply moved, maybe even changed by visiting the lake. The lake has been magical in a corner of my mind ever since. 65+ years.
ReplyDeleteThat I've never visited Crater Lake seem a big loss. Still hope to see it. Someday. Thanks for this beautiful preview.
Can only believe that walking to it with a yearning heart the way you have, will make viewing the lake, inside the whole experience of your PCT hike, spiritually powerful. Your "Sister Earth" will reveal something essential of herself at this pyhä paikka. I envy your experience.
Maybe Harrison & Sawyer will take me there next summer. ~R