Day 60: Mather Pass and King's River

Camp in rocks above South Fork King's River - Campsite by Middle Fork King's River near Big Pete Meadow
Mile 813 - 834
Total 21 miles

Today I'm getting up while it is still dark at four to get across the fourth high mountain pass on the PCT: Mather Pass and to make it as close as possible to the fifth pass (Muir Pass), which is supposed to have the greatest amount of snow. So far I have been hiking over one pass each day. Each pass is unique. This time shortly after leaving camp I take off shoes to ford an ice cold creek, and then head upwards above the tree line and across rocks and rock hard frozen snowfields towards Mather Pass.

The sun shows up right on time when I reach the top of the pass to light up breathing views across lakes and peaks in both directions.

In the morning the snow is rock hard and icy. It's time to put on my orienteering snow and water shoes to add more friction. Below the pass I lose track of trail in the numerous snowfields. Then after some rock scrambling I find it again, and follow it downhill towards the clear blue Palisade Lakes.

Descending to Upper Palisade Lake there are bubbling streams, trees and mountain meadows. The lake itself is enclosed by huge, almost bare granite rocks.

Even more transparent and crystal clear is the water of Lower Palisade Lake. From far away I can see deep under the surface.

The lake outlet is full of fish; if you look closely you can spot the fish swimming in one of the photos. Soon the gentle stream turns into a raging waterfall, tumbling down deep into the valley. It us a mystery to me how the fish got up here. Certainly they couldn't have swam up a waterfall this steep.

After descending many switchbacks beside the waterfall, the trail enters a forest with tall trees in the valley of Palisade Creek.

The Palisade Creek has alternating whitewater and calm sections. In the calm sections you can see all way through the water and watch the fish swimming near the bottom. The water color appears as bright blue and bright green. And there are more and more mosquitoes flying around.

The PCT reaches a confluence and starts heading up the  Middle Fork King's River. This river is even stronger than Palisade Creek with many  waterfalls, and upstream it has also slow meandering sections through wetland meadows.

There are more waterfalls on the way upstream. The whole walk is accompanied by their roaring voice.

Then again a slower section with gentle meadows appears, and I watch a grouse with her chicks right on the trail.

After crossing two more side creeks it is time to look for a spot to camp. I share the campsite with 3 backpackers (Greg worked in the national park) right above the roaring King's River both view of snowy peaks. Greg offers me cheese, I politely decline and cook half cup of rice so that I have a little bit of rice left for the upcoming climbs. For tomorrow, the plan is to get up early to get over the fifth and the snowiest pass: Muir Pass.