Day 78: Out of Energy and Saved by Trail Angels

Lily Pad Lake - mountain ridge above Lake Tahoe
Mile 1063 - 1084
Total 21 miles

Yesterday I had arrived to a "pikku Suomi" (*little Finland) on a relatively flat but glacially shaped watershed divide between the Pacific Ocean and the Great Basin. All sorts of glacial shapes including kettle holes ("suppa") have been carved into the granite by a glacier that once covered most of the high Sierra Nevada crest. There are narrow granite ridges with shallow swamps and lakes in between. A perfect terrain for an orienteering event ("suunnistus").
But my strength does not seem strong enough to start running an orienteering race. Legs feel as if they were made out of lead, making slow heavy steps up and down the low but steep granite ridges. It reminds me of the virtual "wall" that marathon runners hit when they reach near mile 20 out of 26 when metabolism changes from burning sugar to burning body fat. But my feet are healthy and shoes are still holding together and birds started singing their morning song. I am thankful for every step even today. And I still have a little bit of oats left in the bear can and use the prospect of eating them as motivation to reach the start of the next bigger mountain slope. "Little Finland" between Lily Pad Lake and Tamarack Lake is also a kingdom of mosquitoes who are already actives even though the sun is still hiding below the eastern horizon. They serve as food for the birds, some of them nesting in the hollow tree trunks and feeding their hungry little offspring.

I heat up eat all the oats - almost two cups - from the bottom of the bear canister. Glad I had a little discipline to keep them for today morning! Then I slowly continue my way north. It is 25 miles left to Echo Summit above the next trail town of Lake Tahoe.

The trail starts climbing gradually higher, first through forest on granite, then over almost bare igneous volcanic rocks.

Wind strengthens as I walk step by step between patches of mules ears. The mosquito kingdom is over! In 9,000 feet views open up to the half-full "Upper Blue Lake" reservoir. Despite an above average snowpack this season, California still is in a state of long-term hydrologic drought that is affecting groundwater reserves as well as some of the reservoirs.

Lichens and bright patches of wildflowers add even more color to the colorful but almost bare igneous rock surface. The bright yellow beauty captured here has the English name "blazing star".

From the beautiful high ridge the PCT descends back down towards the tree line, goes past a dirt road and crosses numerous little streams. Down in the valley my energy is down again - probably the boost from the oats has already been used up - but luckily there's still some rice left in the bear can.

For psychological motivation I tell myself: first, climb to the next hill named "Elephant's Back" (+ 750 ft) and on top of the hill cook the rice for lunch! And I start a slow and steady climb up the switchbacks, taking deep breaths and soft steps in the snowfields. The top is in sight when I spot a group of people taking a break up in the Elephants Back saddle...

Four girls ask me where I'm hiking from and I answer from Mexico border. We talk about our hikes and then they ask me if I'd like some bananas, peanuts, peanut butter bagels and watermelons to make their packs lighter. I don't hesitate and say yes! And then two more PCT hikers Budza and Christmas Tree arrive and we share the fruits and delicious snacks. I cannot describe how thankful I am to the four trail angels who hiked up to Elephants Back from the other side in the exact time to help us three exhausted hikers!

The hike down is pleasant and comfortable and light, chatting on the way with tourists who have come up here for a Friday afternoon trip from nearby Carson Pass. Then in Carson Pass another unexpected surprise awaits: There is not only a road and a parking lot, but also a forest service information center with three volunteers. One of them asks us if we're PCT hikers and offers us fresh fruit, apples, bagels with jam, and delicious fritos chips and even a bottle of beer!

And another one of the volunteers answers all our curious questions about the trees and flowers the we've seen on trail and helps me identify the conifers growing next to the info center. A true eldorado for hungry and curious PCT hiker tourists! Here's some identification cues for my future reference:

And some flowers...

And something from the history of the Mormon Batallion hiking through Carson Pass for my friends from Utah...

Thanks to you volunteers my PCT journey continues. Full of energy I can go on!

I fly like a stellar jay up to the next hill north of Carson Pass. Then for the first time I see the clear blue waters of USA's second deepest lake: Lake Tahoe!

I am at the source of the snow-fed Truckee River, Lake Tahoe's strongest tributary.

First just a tiny creek, the Truckee river gains on strength.

Past colorful meadows the PCT joins another trail: Tahoe Rim Trail: and takes a climb to a lake called Showers lake: a perfect place not only to take a shower, but a full cold bath before I come down into town tomorrow!

Above Showers Lake, magnificent vistas with more glimpses of Lake Tahoe open up before an amazed hiker's eyes.

When the sun starts hiding in the sky ... I find a rocky outcrop hidden from the trail and crawl inside my little tent and tomorrow I'm going to be at the shore of Tahoe. In Washo, Tahoe means "The Lake".

Feeling thankful and blessed today more than ever!