Day 70: Clouds Rest and Yosemite Valley

Cowboy camp above Cathedral Pass - Yosemite Valley Visitor Center + bus back to Tuolumne Meadows campground
17 miles hike (side trip) + 35 miles by YARTS bus
Total 17 miles

Not even in my wildest dreams have I seen myself waking up at dawn surrounded by rock domes and cathedrals in the very heart of the Yosemite National Park. Today I'm walking a side trip to Clouds Rest and Yosemite Valley. From my hidden cowboy camp spot I get back on trail and descend to Sunrise Meadow covered by a white frosting.

At the "Sunrise High Sierra Camp" equipped with a solar powered toilet, a sign shows "Clouds Rest". A path climbs up stairs to a saddle and then goes down again to a group of glacial lakes called "Sunrise Lakes".

The path goes up and down, often on Big stone stairs, through forests, rock fields and past more little lakes. In a distance the rocky outcrop of the Clouds Rest can be seen.

A little stream crossing the path has good fresh water. Then the final steep climb starts to the very top.

From almost 10,000 feet elevation we can see the bottom of the Yosemite Valley six thousand feet below; the famous Half Dome is also deep under our viewpoint. Ravens soar around and hikers gaze in awe at the heights and depths.

After a long break on the summit it is time to head down. Steep stairs on the other side of Clouds Rest lined with colorful flowers start the path's descent into the valley. The famous Half Dome resembles a face of an animal. It can be seen from various elevation angles as I follow the switchbacks going lower and lower.

Then the trail enters an old conifer forest.

Through the forest it goes further down until it reaches the shores of the Merced River in Little Yosemite Valley.

We are at the upper edge of Nevada Falls, where the Merced River makes a deep dive. It is one of the strongest and highest waterfalls that I have ever seen.

The Mist Trail goes down steep stairs parallel to the waterfall. Tourists from all over the world came here to see, hear and smell the giant volumes of fresh water plunging deep down. A ground squirrel is watching the tourists and enjoying an afternoon snack. From the bottom the Nevada Falls are impressive too.

Going past the Emerald Pool the Mist Trail reaches another equally powerful waterfall: Vernal Falls.

From the Vernal Falls it is a short walk to Yosemite Valley visitor center. I catch a glimpse of the famous Yosemite Falls and arrive right on time to catch the 5 pm bus that takes me and other backpackers back to Tuolumne Meadows. And at Tuolumne Meadows bus stop, Legend with a group of hard working volunteers have just cooked a huge bowl of spaghetti for all hikers! A perfect ending of the long day :-)

Now writing from a high mountain ridge near PCT mile 1010. It's a rare location with cell phone signal. Next online update at Sonora Pass (if there's signal) or around 16th July from Lake Tahoe!